Types of welding Solder
Solder is a heater to melt lead, so stick to the legs of transistors or other electronic components, so that the legs are united by lines on the pcb (printed circuit board). The most basic skills necessary to assemble / repair of electronic devices is the soldering technique. This soldering technique can not instantly mastered, for graduates of technical schools is a fundamental lesson. As for the layman it takes practice for some time to make a perfect connection.
Various types of solder available many choices depending on your budget, the device that you do and how serious you are in this field. For use as repair HP eg use solder type blower / hot water. Solder type has an adjustable temperature from 100C to 540C.
1. Solder usual, this type is the most widely used because its price is relatively cheap, for the purpose of assembling / servicing is sufficient. Although actually, if we choose a good brand will be more expensive but the quality is balanced with, for example goot / Hakko and others. Solder which has a ceramic heater type is usually more expensive and longer age than the type of solder with the heating coil.
Various types of solder available many choices depending on your budget, the device that you do and how serious you are in this field. For use as repair HP eg use solder type blower / hot water. Solder type has an adjustable temperature from 100C to 540C.
1. Solder usual, this type is the most widely used because its price is relatively cheap, for the purpose of assembling / servicing is sufficient. Although actually, if we choose a good brand will be more expensive but the quality is balanced with, for example goot / Hakko and others. Solder which has a ceramic heater type is usually more expensive and longer age than the type of solder with the heating coil.
2. Solder with temperature control, There are several types of solder which has a temperature setting automatically. Ordinary solder does not have this feature, characteristic of this solder is memilliki control box separate from the solder. The advantages of this type is when turned on no matter how long the temperature will be stable / constant so as not to damage the solder itself as well as the voltage up and down will not affect the temperature of the solder, while the ordinary solder temperature rises as the applied voltage and time to turn it on, if left continuously lit usually ends near the elements will melt the solder. There are the usual specifications for this type of example:
- Heating Element : Ceramic Heater
- Temperature Range : 200 ~ 480 °C
- Temperature Stability : ± 1 °C (no load)
- Tip to Ground Resistance : di bawah 2Ω
- Tip to Ground Potential : di bawah 2mV
3. Solder Steam / blower / Hot water, Blowers is one variant of the solder. Called blower because the user process using the air. In the standard blower used in the lab, there are 2 settings. The first arrangement is the hot strength (heating) to be issued through the eyes of solder, and other settings is the pressure (force gusts) air will be emitted. Both linear regulators are working with each other. The higher the air temperature is emitted, will be getting stronger again if the increased pressure that will be issued .. uadara
The blower specifications commonly used are:
1. Solder Steam Welding Remover For soldering and desoldering SMD components are very small
2. Shirts can be used to heat the tube,
3. Heat energy and heat processing test
4. Temperature can be set from 100C to 540C
5. With Anti-static circuit to protect the damaged component
And here are some things you should consider before buying a soldering:
Voltage: Who should bear in mind is soldering the working voltage should be adjusted with the voltage dimiliki.Umumnya its voltage is 220-240VAC, for some particular solder is also a working teganga dc, which is 12-48VDC with current consumption up to 3-4A. Compare with solder which has a current AC <0.5 A, but this is rather rare type of solder.
Power / Watt: Typically, the average technician using a solder with a power rating of between 30-40 watts or so, I myself always use a 40W because if you use the 30W would be difficult to remove large transistors on the TV is broken. In theory solder that has a greater power will be higher then the temperature was also produced, consider buying according to our needs. For electronic devices need 30-40W is adequate.
Anti-static protection: If you intend for soldering components such as MOSFET / IC EEPROM / IC CMOS type are vulnerable to static electricity so that common ordinary solder will not be suitable for use, would be better if using a solder that has a safety anti-static like those of type High Precision Thermostat Solder / Solder with temperature control as above.
Voltage: Who should bear in mind is soldering the working voltage should be adjusted with the voltage dimiliki.Umumnya its voltage is 220-240VAC, for some particular solder is also a working teganga dc, which is 12-48VDC with current consumption up to 3-4A. Compare with solder which has a current AC <0.5 A, but this is rather rare type of solder.
Power / Watt: Typically, the average technician using a solder with a power rating of between 30-40 watts or so, I myself always use a 40W because if you use the 30W would be difficult to remove large transistors on the TV is broken. In theory solder that has a greater power will be higher then the temperature was also produced, consider buying according to our needs. For electronic devices need 30-40W is adequate.
Anti-static protection: If you intend for soldering components such as MOSFET / IC EEPROM / IC CMOS type are vulnerable to static electricity so that common ordinary solder will not be suitable for use, would be better if using a solder that has a safety anti-static like those of type High Precision Thermostat Solder / Solder with temperature control as above.
Well what if we only have ordinary solder's device is that we are soldering a sensitive component. Easy, create artificial grounding, how to wrap the cable to the tip / body soldering heater (metal part) give the cable a bit long. The other end connected to the previous spike was nailed to the wall, the more deeply embedded nails it will get better groundingnya, humidity walls also define a good or bad grounding. I used to use a 12cm concrete nails for grounding these artificial and quite good results.
From various sources and personal experiences
From various sources and personal experiences
Source : infoservicetv
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